Archive for the ‘Fertilizing’ Category

Get ‘Um Before It’s Cold

We are getting to the end of the mowing season. But before you think of putting your mower to rest for the winter, there are some tasks that still need to be done.

Mow, Mow, Mow… If you have been following the schedule, you should be mowing about every 4 days. Make sure you adjust the mower height to cut to about 2-2.5 inches. Also, you will want to vary the direction of your cutting. If you cut in stripes one way last time, cut 90 degrees to that this time. Or, cut on a left-sloped diagonal this time, and a right-sloped diagonal next time. This makes for a better cut and your lawn doesn’t grow in only one direction. (And don’t forget to trim along the curb!)

Weed Alert!  Yes, those weeds are still here and need to be dealt with. Pull out your favorite weed killer (Weed-B-Gone, etc.) and spray the weeds where ever they have popped up. Getting them now will only help in the spring. Remember… you will still be dealing with winter weed growth come March. You may also want to want to put down a layer of fertilizer plus pre-emergent (“Turf Builder Plu Halts”) to stop crabgrass before the seeds start to germinate. I know this is usually done in the spring, but the pre-emergent will also put a stop to other weeds from germinating over the winter. Caution! Do not apply a pre-emergent if you’re planning on seeding your lawn soon. It will stop grass seed from growing for two to six months. Wait until next season to apply a pre-emergent.

If you have followed the schedule, you already applied regular fertilizer to your lawn in September. Now you should wait until November to put down the last fertilizer application to give your lawn that boost it needs in the spring. But now is a great time to go out and purchase that bag so you are ready next month.

Dead leaves will harm your lawn!

Dead leaves will harm your lawn!

Leaf Alert! Soon the leaves will fall and your lawn will begin to look like this. That’s when it’s time to remove the leaves and other debris so that any newly seeded grass (or old grass) can get the much-needed sunshine to thicken up. If leaves are covering up your new grass, it can’t get the sunshine it requires to grow, and will just give up. So all of your hard work will be lost. Take some time to remove the leaves from your newly seeded areas. Either rake them up regularly or mulch fallen leaves throughout the fall (can you say ‘mulching mower’ ?). Because, like the grass blades, leaves are a valuable source of nutrients and organic matter. If there are a lot of leaves, you may consider removing some and leaving some to mulch so as not to smother the grass.

That’s it for now! If you don’t have our Lawn Club eBook yet, click HERE to download your copy.

 

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The Battle Never Ends!

It’s almost fall, the weather is cooling off, it’s time to fertilize, but I’m still having lawn ‘issues’!  It’s a lawn fungus. And based on some neighborhood observations, I’m not alone.

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lawn fungus

To be sure it’s not grubs, try pulling up a brown patch. If you can’t, it’s fungus. Your next step is to buy a bag of fungus control at your local hardware store. Apply it at the suggested rate and let it go to work! It takes a week or 2 to get things back to normal. In the meantime, you can go back to cleaning up the weeds and getting the fall bag of fertilizer ready. You should wait 2 weeks after you put down the fungus control to fertilize.

 

If you don’t have problems like fungus in your lawn, it’s time to start in on the fall lawn ‘to-dos’ like fertilizing, aerating, and dethatching. Please refer to Page 47 in the Lawn Club eBook for information on what to do for the fall.   Lawn Club eBook

 

This is great weather to get out there and get your fall lawn maintenance started!

Scotts Lawn Fungus Control

Scotts Lawn Fungus Control